The soothing melodic grunt is hard to place at first.
The bass tones tickle your senses. It feels like it is being piped from every angle, rolling over the lush blades of grass, tumbling along the cobbled pathways, bubbling through the pond laced with waterlilies and lily pads.
This isn’t a well-placed soundtrack by the Anantara team.
This is the welcome chorus by the resident frogs.
They have made Anantara Hoi An Resort their home. Who can blame them? As evening descends, they pipe up, providing an enchanting ensemble that reverberates delightfully through this colonial inspired tropical resort on the banks of the Thu Bon River in central Vietnam.
This peacefully idyllic retreat is a short stroll from the vibrant, bustling, and colourful centre of Hoi An once a trading port and now a UNESCO protected site.
Merchants from China, Japan and later Europe settled here, bringing a melange of architectural marvels such as the Japanese Bridge, Tan Ky Ancestral House, and Phuc Kien Assembly Hall. The visage of the old town hasn’t changed, although there are now boutique hotels, lounge bars and tailor shops alongside the merchant houses, temples, and ancient tea warehouses.
A musical repertoire continues via the chattering of street vendors at the market, the whirling of bicycle wheels churning through the ancient streets, past weathered pagodas. Traditional sampan boats skilfully bypass each other with the silent sinuous grace of a cat, except at night, when river boats burst alive with colourful lanterns and the shrill of excited tourists echoes through the patchwork quilt of streets.
Importantly, the scourge of modern-day living, pollution and traffic are yet to touch Hoi An in any significant way. Mopeds are inevitable although bicycles remain a popular choice. The Anantara Hoi An has its own fleet, feel free to take one, pedal through the old town or a few kilometres in the other direction to the beach.
Here, well preserved history isn’t far from modern civilisation.
The closest airport is in Danang. The fourth largest city in Vietnam was transformed by the Vietnamese boom into a gleaming tourist magnet and is a mere forty-five-minutes’ drive away.
This is where the charge on the senses begins.
After dark, the streets that line the route from the airport to Hoi An are dressed in dancing lights. Reds, greens and brilliant whites, flash and pop from the shop front windows. String lights hug lampposts, figuratively linking arms to light the way.
Reminiscent of the Las Vegas Strip, they twinkle and dance, a coruscating kaleidoscope of colours, signalling your arrival to this lively playground.
The drive becomes more sedate the closer to Hoi An you get. The colours are not muted, just more refined, iridescent almost.
The terracotta tiled rooftops of the Anantara Hoi An whisper opulence the closer you get, that, and the manicured gardens, vibrant fuchsia pink flowers, and river vistas. The two and three storey pastel-coloured buildings blend seamlessly into the surroundings, a mid-town oasis to quench the thirst of beleaguered souls in need of rejuvenation.
Palm trees stand guard over the refreshing pool. There is a gym for those who prefer not to lie back, gaze mesmerizingly at the river, and top up vitamin D levels.
Rooms and suites are split level with a welcome cushioned snug at the entrance to relax in the balmy night air. A spacious living area is separated by a few steps from the bedroom and bathroom. The sunken sandstone bath and rainbow shower are a central feature as is the fern up lit drawers under a full-length mirror.
The muted colours are offset beautifully by the charismatic, bold aqua green wall surrounding the dark wooden door. The brilliant white balustrade indicates the sleeping area, which with crisp white sheets and a Queens size bed offers an unbroken night of slumber.
Colonial inspired fans whirl quietly overhead, a table of treats and fruit are a welcome addition as is the towel elephant on the bed.
Splashes of colour thread throughout, a masterpiece of a Vietnamese lady dressed in traditional Áo dài, by renowned French photographer Rehahn, captures the essence of Hoi An above the bed. Rehahn travelled to over thirty-five countries before finally choosing to settle in Hoi An, be sure to visit his art gallery and museum nearby.
Breakfast is served at Lanterns, the first-floor restaurant. A buffet offering a vast selection of Vietnamese and Western food is on offer, deliciously fresh baked pastries can be followed by a fragrant bowl of Vietnamese Pho. The views of the river are stunning, often evoking a longer, more drawn-out breakfast experience.
The Hoi An Riverside Restaurant comes alive at night, with shimmering lanterns adding a romantic air. Enjoy Vietnamese summer rolls, BBQ pork ribs, or frog cake with noodles. Thankfully not our friends from the chorus line.
In keeping with the artistic vibe, Art Space is a creative new dining experience, a blending of an art gallery and a restaurant. A wood fired oven produces tasty freshly made pizza, although local dishes are also on offer. Here is perfect for perching on a barstool, sipping a cocktail or sampling a locally crafted beer while thoughtfully critiquing the art.
Reflections Pool Bar also provides light bites such as salads and pizza, should you quite rightly, not want to drag yourself away from the comfy sun loungers.
A private river cruise from the Anantara jetty can be arranged, giving you an insight into the history of the river, town, and its people from a different perspective, all while sampling local cuisine and guzzling traditional beer. Ngoc, a guide on the boat, explained the concept of the Vietnamese egg coffee, latterly skilfully making one, a sweet indulgent treat that is a must to try. Thankfully it didn’t remotely taste of raw eggs.
Other day trips and experiences call also be organised by the extremely attentive staff. Take a Hoi An Street food tour. Hear stories from local people played out through food, sample the Banh Mi sandwich, a French baguette made with pate, meats, fresh herbs and handmade mayonnaise, a perfect blend of French and Vietnamese cuisine at the Banh Mi Phuong restaurant made famous by Anthony Bourdain.
After a steamy walking tour retreat to the spa for much needed rest and relaxation.
The spa has four luxurious treatment rooms specialising in eastern and western massage techniques. Signature treatments include the green tea and salt scrub and the Vietnamese herbal bath alongside traditional massages.
A special addition to the outdoor reception area is the booking office for the Vietage, a luxurious 6-hour railway adventure through central Vietnam from old town Hoi An to the shores of Quy Nhon where Anantara’s sister property lies.
The Vietage train departs every morning from Da Nang Railway station, trundling through the lush countryside arriving at Quy Nhon early evening. The Vietage combines old world comfort with modern classics for only 12 guests. It serves Vietnamese specialities alongside sparkling French bubbles. You are also provided with a ‘discovery book’ to understand the landscape that you are travelling through, although the vision of a water buffalo having a quick bath will be hard to misconstrue.
There was no frog chorus when it was time to leave.
They instinctively knew that sadness lurked. It was better to save their voices and prepare the welcome tunes for the next guests who gleefully seek solace surrounded by vivid colours and invigorating sounds, with a mute button when needed.
Cue Anantara Hoi An Resort.
Drum roll, please.
For more information visit Anantara Hoi An Resort
