Moonshine. A word with two meanings. Often felt to be clandestine and bewitching, the reflection of the sun’s rays in the darkness of night, pouring a hazy, translucent coating of brilliance over the earth. Or, a distilled white whiskey that was once, and probably still is, made illegally in the dead of night. With a 40-45 per cent volume, it too pours a hazy coating, tingling the throat as it hurriedly reaches the stomach, lubricating joints, and loosening tongues.
Raise a glass to Lao Lao.
PS, there is a small bottle in your room at the Avani + Hotel. More on that later.
This legal Laotian white whiskey is made from steamed rice, yeast, and water. It takes approximately twenty days to ferment and is widely made in the regions surrounding Luang Prabang in Northern Laos. It’s an institution. With a faint whiskey flavour, the Laotians usually drink it neat, offering friends and passersby a nip.
Take one.
There is joy in getting slightly tipsy with locals, communicating via hand gestures, understanding muddled but assured. Beware, as many attest to one nip too many, the hand of friendship can end in a prolonged headache, just ask Marcus, the head chef at Avani + Hotel. He used to walk home after work, now he takes his moped. By the time each neighbour had offered up a glass, he was a little worse for wear and one hour past a fifteen-minute commute.
That’s the thing in Laos, the people are friendly, the atmosphere is chilled and time slips by.
You feel it from the minute you land in Wattay International Airport. A small, one terminal building that feels immensely tropical. Staff wait at the steps of the plane with umbrellas to keep the sun or rain, whatever season you visit in, off your tee shirt laden body, worn no matter what the weather.
It’s Laos after all, less is more.
The twenty-minute journey into Luang Prabang winds through farmland, worker’s conical sun hats bob up and down rhythmically in the sodden paddy fields. Lush greenery and thunderous mountains provide the backdrop for this ancient UNESCO Heritage site city. That, and the majestic Mekong River.
There are over 30 Buddhist Temples or wats of Lao, Thai, or Kymer architecture, all distinguished by golden spires, whitewashed stupas, and hand painted murals. Mount Phousi, or ‘sacred hill’ rises 100 metres above the city, dappled by little temples, their rooftops barely visible, jutting out from the dense foliage. Saffron clad monks wander along the paths, incense drifts in the air. 300 steps traverse the side of the mount, culminating in breathtaking views across the city and the blue mountains beyond. Below, people mill like ants in the bustling Main Street, the lifeblood of the city, and the home of the Avani + Hotel Luang Prabang.
The light wood exterior, hacienda shutters, cream walls and muted furnishings instil a sense of peace the minute you step into the lobby. Orange cushions add a subtle splash of colour, in homage to the monks that pass by every morning at sunrise for almsgiving, the offering of gifts for the less fortunate. You will often find Beatrice, the General Manager, greeting and chatting to guests, a chilled vibe descends. A welcome purple hibiscus drink and a cool towel indicate it’s time to adopt the slower Laotian way of life.
The layout neatly promotes a cozy atmosphere, the three sides of the hotel frame the twenty-five-metre swimming pool, one of the very few in the city. The Asian Flame trees, sprinkle their vibrant red flowers like confetti, natures celebration of its beauty.
A debranched tree rests on the manicured lawn, rope drawn across its remnants, poised like a slingshot, not sure why, there is no danger here, just peace.
A towering banyan tree guards the side entrance, where the library offers a tranquil sanctuary.
The rooms are on two levels, all with a balcony and French style louvered doors, many with a pool view.
The open plan rooms are light and airy, the theme of nature and wood permeates throughout. Sustainability and supporting the local community is important to Avani +. The Lala vision is to provide education to Lao children who have moved from the countryside to complete their secondary schooling, the rooms have token gifts that can purchased in support.
Other gifts include local fruit and of course Lao Lao. If the local whiskey doesn’t appeal, the local beer might.
Beer Lao is also made from rice, not malt, which gives it a lighter sweet taste. The Main Street Bar and Grill is the perfect venue to sip a few beers while sampling local food. Laab Pla Thot, deep fried spicy fish spring roll or Yum Nua Yang, pan seared Australian rib eye salad with spices are great starters, before sampling the mains of Khao Pad Luang Prabang, egg fried rice with spicey Luang Prabang sausage and salted egg or Mok Kung, steamed white prawns in banana leaf. Finish off with the Kluai Thot or deep-fried banana fritter with honey and lime glazed coconut ice cream. Beautifully accompanied by a dram of local coconut Laodi, or rum, a smooth, rich, surprisingly non-sickly liquor.
Relaxing by the pool is best saved for the afternoon, venture out in the morning on one of the hotel’s many excursions. Plunge into the cool water of Kuang Si Waterfalls or visit Pak Ou Caves, limestone cliff caverns filled with Buddha icons. After, indulge in a mesmerising sunset cruise on the Mekong River. Lounge on the cushion filled deck of the hotel’s private long boat, nibble spring rolls and devour chocolate brownies while drifting slowly along the Mekong. Heavenly.
To further nourish the soul, the Anantara Spa and their signature massage is a must. Using specialist rituals to relax and rejuvenate, the massage blends eastern and western techniques for maximum energy flow.
After sunset, evenings should be spent pottering around the night market, a stones throw from the hotel. From 5PM onwards hill tribe traders emerge with various clothes, ceramics, lamps, and handicrafts, staying until late.
Pottering done, wrap up the evening with another tipple of your choice, relaxed under the glow of moonshine.
Life never felt so good.
Avani Deluxe Pool View Rooms start from £181/€212 including breakfast.
For more information visit: Avani + Luang Prabang
